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FIRE PREVENTION CHECKLIST
Using this checklist, walk through your barn and see what needs to be corrected.
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ELECTRICAL CONSIDERATIONS           

The National Electrical Code (NEC) Handbook, published by the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA), is about 1,189 pages long and it’s not easy reading, which is why we have licensed electrical contractors to make sure the wiring is done right.  An amateur can install wiring and it may work, but there is no safe substitute for work performed by a professional.

Wiring a barn is a pretty straightforward project for a qualified electrician.  The basic needs are mainly for lighting and the operation of permanently installed appliances.  There must also be an adequate number of outlets so extension cords won’t be needed.  Other than those requirements, there isn’t much else needed in the way of electric power.  But, the best electrical setup in the world can be nullified by someone who takes the safety of electricity for granted, and does not, as a result of that misplaced trust, treat electricity with the respect it demands.  Electrical malfunctions and misuse of electric appliances are a major cause of fires. 


At some point between where the incoming electricity comes from the road and enters the barn, a shutoff switch should be located that will cut off electricity to the barn.  This shutoff will probably be in the main residence, but it can be located inside or outside any other building.  If the switch is inside an outbuilding, you'll have to make sure it's accessible at all times, so the building cannot be locked.  Wherever the switch is located, it must cut off all power to the barn, but not to other buildings, water pumps, or telephones.  The location of the switch should be clearly marked so it can be seen from a distance of seventy-five feet, that way, if the person who must cut off the power is unfamiliar with your property, he or she will be able to find the shutoff switch with minimal instruction.


If you are planning a new barn, or re-wiring an existing barn, try to locate your incoming electric supply away from any doorways so a fire occurring at the electrical panel will not make an exit unusable.  Post a red or yellow flag or sign to show the location of the electrical panel, or provide an arrow sign pointing to your mechanical room if you have a separate area.


All wiring must be enclosed in metal conduit that will protect the wiring from corrosion or from destruction by animals and birds.  The main causes of electrical fires not caused by misuse are from short circuits caused by overloaded systems, no conduits, or faulty conduits.  The National Electrical Code recommends installing a lot of outlets in residential and commercial buildings to keep from overloading circuits, and the same thing holds true for barns because the fewer circuits and outlets you have, the more dangerous and inconvenient your barn will be.  You’ll find yourself adding extension cords that tend to become permanent, and sometimes in barns where this has happened, you’ll see cords that are draped along the walls on nails.  The next thing that happens with those extension cords is that dust and cobwebs accumulate between the cord and the nail and sooner or later, if a cord is worn through by even the slightest movement against a nail, there is likely to be enough heat generated to start a fire.   


So, all wiring must be in conduit where it will be protected, however, I know of several instances where the conduit became part of the problem.  Where the conduit must be cut for length or for putting in connections, very often there will be metal splinters or filings on the cut ends of the conduit.  These must be filed off so the ends of the conduit are smooth; otherwise there is a possibility, although not common, that metal splinters and filings inside the conduit can rub against the wire insulation.  The tool used to clean off these filings is called a burr or a deburrer; make sure your electrician uses one.


Interior conduit splinters or filings creating friction may seem like an unlikely event, but remember that buildings of any kind are continually moving, however slightly.  That’s what creates those strange creakings and pops and squeals in our homes and other buildings.  We get used to the sound of our homes and even become comfortable with the familiarity of our squeaks.  That ability to move as conditions require is what keeps buildings from toppling over, but keep in mind that the movement is not just in the exterior supports.  It takes very little time and effort to file off the cut ends of conduit as the job is being done, and it’s something you want to make sure your electrician is doing as the wiring proceeds.    


When it comes to installing outlets or junction boxes, use waterproof wiring connectors that are made for direct burial.  These are designed to keep water, dirt, and other in-ground debris out of the box so the connection isn’t degraded.  The slight disadvantage to using the waterproof connections, though, is that they are bulky and you have to use larger boxes.  You’ll definitely want any outlets near a wash rack or water supply to have covers that are designed for use around water so they will automatically trip the switch in case of a short.   


Ground Fault Interrupter (GFI) outlets are mandatory in some jurisdictions, so be sure to check on that when you order your electrical supplies.  GFI plugs will cut off the power automatically if there is a surge.  They cost a bit more, but the safety they provide is worth it.  GFI plugs have proven to save lives.  If they’re working correctly, they’ll cut off power before a person can perceive a shock.  You can run your power to the barn and then install a breaker box with GFI breakers; your electrician can advise you about your particular situation.


There are some disadvantages to GFI plugs, which is why you need to place them in the best locations for your needs.  For example, GFI protected runs extending beyond a certain length do tend to trip more easily.  In some cases, if you put fluorescent lights on a GFI circuit, the GFI may trip every time you turn the light on.  This is because fluorescent lights create a noise that the GFI interprets as a fault.  There are filters for fluorescent fixtures that eliminate the noise, but since barn lights aren’t normally in direct contact with people or horses, you can probably avoid having those fixtures on a GFI circuit without too much worry about safety.  By the way, if you have electric fencing and the charger is in the barn, be sure to put it on a GFI outlet.

What kind of general lighting do you want to install?  Fluorescent lighting is the most efficient means of lighting and the tubes can be enclosed in plastic covers so if they break those zillions of tiny shards are contained.  The disadvantage of fluorescent lighting is that in an unheated area where the temperature may drop below 20°F. you need to use fluorescent lights with low temperature ballasts that are rated to -20°F. otherwise the tubes will only give off a dull glow or won’t work at all.  Many people install a dual system, using both fluorescent and incandescent fixtures so depending on temperature and need, either or both systems can be used.  For example, the main aisle can be lighted using fluorescent fixtures for general use, with incandescent fixtures located at intervals and set up so that only one or two may be turned on at a time.

If you have light fixtures placed directly below your roof, you should check to make sure there are no leaks. One fire that cost the lives of 29 horses may have been caused by a short circuit in an overhead light fixture that was wet from heavy rain.


Keep halogen lighting out of the barn.  Although halogen lights provide brilliant light, they take a lot of power and produce a tremendous amount of heat.  Even though they are enclosed in a UL-tested housing, it’s better to not add any heat indoors that is not needed.  You can use halogen fixtures outside the barn where you want to have the best visibility and where the heat that is radiated will be able to dissipate harmlessly outdoors.


For the greatest convenience and safety, many people like having an outlet in front of each stall or enclosure, but that’s not always practical or even necessary.  You do want to have them handy, though, so give some thought beforehand about where you’ll be doing various activities in your barn as a whole and, most often, in your aisleway.  Where are your crossties?  Is that where you’ll be using the clippers?  If you have several work areas, you’ll want an outlet at each.  


Outlets have to be kept clean, so add them to your weekly dusting schedule.  Unused outlets can be covered with the plastic inserts used to childproof home outlets.  You can buy them at any discount store and they do a good job of sealing off unused outlets.  You might also consider installing outlet covers that have the flip-open covers for outdoor use.  Another important thing to do when you install switches, outlets, and lights is to seal all the gaps around the entrances to every box with a silicone caulk.  Enough fires are started by sparking dust in electrical systems that sealing everything off at the start is a wise precaution.

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